In this how-to, we will identify some possible causes that can lead to fixing car electrical problems, and then we will show possible ways you can try to fix the problem.
The epidermal cell battery is the most common and obvious electrical problem. When you look at the key, the car’s engine is running. You may still be able to use your lights as well as other accessories. This can usually be fixed with a quick start.
There is a very simple way to troubleshoot electrical problems, and it’s amazing how many men don’t know about it. my
is also clean. In a series of articles on automotive electrical equipment (which included an introduction to how electricity works and how to use a multimeter), I gave a quick troubleshooting example in which I used a multimeter to test for voltage. If any device does notFor example, an electric motor is not struggling, first determine the voltage if it appears when you turn on the switch that powers the device. If there is voltage on the positive terminal of this device, check the wire for poor connection of the device and ground continuity (first assembled with the vehicle, then on the negative battery terminal). If these tests pass, run a voltage test to check if the primary resistor is bad. If the voltage drop test shows no problems, the musical instrument has burned out.
But as I was quick to say, there is an easier way to help you troubleshoot: connect a hypothetical item (our electric motor) to this battery and see if it works. It is so simple. i
I’m one step behind. On the road to catechism in the automotive electrical world, it goes without saying that 1) you need an electrical diagram to start troubleshooting, and 2) most electrical problems are due to the wrong causes, the location of which is shown in the electrical diagram. are. I’m probably at risk of being called a heretic, and even if I say so, I find these things both exaggerated and wrong (not compared to the almost always wrong advice that if your own “Check Engine” light is your gas cap shape, the light will surely come out). I also freely admit that, having actually written an e-book, I hate looking at schematics. They damage the brains of the group. How he tries to read spaghetti.
Instead of automatically reaching for an electrical circuit and “testing ground” – a process that determines where the ring terminals at the ends of the ground wires connect to the car body, removes a bolt, and cleans the connection – think of a circuit broken into two parts: device and “wiring”. The latter refers to everything that is not the device itself: all switches, relays, sensors, control modules, wires and clamps, and, yes, “ground”.
To continue with my personal example of an electric motor, I first need to determine if it has failed. Should I immediatelyWhy log in and search the web until I find the best price for a new drive? Or am I better off spending a few evenings learning the ins and outs of motor wiring and how all the relays and sensors need to work together correctly in order to turn on the device? The second option, although it requires studying enthusiast forums, obtaining and understanding the circuit, saves you the hassle of ordering a new engine.
I recently delved into this process while planning another trip and found that all of the steps I followed are a near-perfect example of how useful this particular troubleshooting method is when testing the device directly.
I bought a real little motorhome, a Winnebago 1996 Rialta, which is basically a Volkswagen Eurovan with a body on wheels. It had a list of flaws, most often related to the need to repair both the van and the RV system, but for the most part, the product worked. Two days before my wife and I went on our first trip, I disinfected your current fresh water tank with chlorine. I had to turn on the pump for fresh rainwater and open sinks to let sanitizer run through all the faucets, but when I flipped the switch to turn the pump on, nothing happened. I was surprised because the pump started working the day before.
How do you troubleshoot a car electrical problem?
Check specific grounding with an ohmmeter. If the ground is OK, the main problem is with the component. If there is no voltage in some “hot” wire to the component, the next problem is with the electrical circuits. Follow the table of fuses (or relays or circuit breakers) until you finally find the voltage.
I searched the Internet for cool pump water and found it to be a hundred dollars. I immediately began the procedure for direct testing of the device. I took the length that was connected to the 12-gauge wire, crimped the ring terminal on one end and the spade terminal on the other, connected the jewelry terminal to the positive terminal of the battery, ran the wire from the positive terminal of the main pump and put a collapsible shovel clip on it. (Note that this can easily be done without crimping the actual ends on the connectors, but it’s safer to make the device that way. You don’t really need an unreliable cable that plugs straight in to positively support your battery and momentarily slip to ground.)
Because the pump was directly connected to the battery, it started up immediately with a reassuring hum. This (note thatif it hadn’t been for the thought immediately when I wired it my way, I would have done the old thing on the negative side to successfully ensure that a dirty path is created straight from the motor to all the negative battery terminals. I had to drop it and do it all over again.
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